Wednesday, 11th July 2007
Day's progress: 18kms 10 locks
This was Bill’s last full day with us – he would be catching the train from Clamercy the next day to Migennes to pick up his car. The weather had cleared and it looked like we were in for a nice day. It was a bit chilly but the sun was out.
This was the first day we really had a chance to take in the lovely countryside – instead of huddling under shelter we could be on deck and enjoy ourselves. Steve must have been relieved – fixing the windscreen wipers must have done the trick! The landscape had very gentle hills and lovely green pastures. Big fat butter coloured cows (Charolais) all over the place. The air smelled farmyardy – not too much but enough to know we were “in the country”.
We seemed to be the only boat on the canal – there was no one else around. This might be because some of the others we had started with had turned back to the base (they m
ay have been doing a week trip) and also because we were covering in pleasure cruising terms, quite a distance each day. We were also doing a full day – we had to get Bill to Clamercy in time and we had to stick to our plan to meet our overall deadlines. Remember that we could only start at 9 in the morning when the locks opened and we could only cruise at a maximum speed of 8 kmp and the locks were closed between 12 and 1. We also worked out that it sometimes took us half an hour to get through a lock if it was against us or there was traffic in the opposite direction that had right of way. We were busy on the boat and there wasn’t much time to slack off.
Before I lurch into a description of our next meal (lunch), I thought I should tell you about our morning routine and breakfasts. Steve would get up fairly early and hose and mop down the boats’ exterior – it gets quite messy with grass and other debris from all the jumping on and off at locks and moorings. He would then walk to the nearest boulangerie for fresh bread and croissants. I would put out the breakfast things – melon and parma ham, butter and jam, orange juice and make the coffee. This became our standard breakfast for the entire trip – refreshing and not too heavy bearing in mind we would be having lunch 3 hours later. Bill chopped up the previous days bread for the ducks, helped with washing up and did his bit of housework – ie. Fluff his duvet. I would also do a bit of housekeeping. The boat was very roomy and we had enough bathrooms, the kitchen quite large and bedrooms a fair size. But we had to make sure we didn’t have stuff lying around and it was easier to clean up every day than to leave it. We usually finished breakfast and about 8.45, got ready to go and tried to be at the first lock, if it was close by, for opening time. That was our routine and so far it seemed to work well.
Running along side the canal is a well-maintained path about 2.5 meters wide. Because of the change in the weather there were people walking, running or cycling on the path. In days gone by, barges were pulled along the canals by donkeys, horses or mule and even more alarming by the bargeman’s strong wife and children. The path followed the same gradient as the canal so it was an ideal place to walk or cycle. There were groups of people on walking tours and many touring cycles, some pulling special little baby carriages or kiddie bikes. Everyone was very friendly and everyone we saw greeted us. The fishermen were out in force and we got a wave and bon jour from them.
There are many small towns and villages on the canals and rivers. They are fairly close together so quite a number of people on the path are locals. And they usually had a dog with them. The French love their dogs and after I while I felt as if I was viewing a dog show. Beautiful breeds, some I hadn’t seen for ages and so far not a mongrel in sight. The dogs are well groomed, well socialized, obedient and friendly. Dogs are welcome in restaurants and shops and waiters rush to put down a bowl of water – before attending to the owners. I saw a couple of wired haired terriers – a breed from my childhood and I had forgotten how appealing these little critters are. My mother always called them wooden leg dogs because of the way they keep their front legs dead straight.
Cats were not quite so visible – I had seen a few but they scampered away if I got too close. In the towns and villages the houses are sometimes built really close to the street – only a narrow pavement separates them from the traffic. Beautiful lace curtains kept out prying eyes. The fashionable thing is heavily patterned lace usually showing an animal, bird or flower design. Designs showing cats in various poses were popular.
We stopped at a small village called SURGY. We moored the boat next to a very pleasant park/recreation area. This park provided outstanding ablution facilities – spotless toilets and showers with soap, toilet paper and paper towels and large laun
dry basins. The place was well looked after and there was not another person in sight and everything was unlocked. On the other side of the canal was an old structure that would have been used as a “ water taxi stop”. It was roofed and level with the water to make it easy to jump on a barge – the villagers must have used these taxis to go back and forth to bigger towns. The village was a short distance from the canal and we had a nice walk there; past the inevitable fields of cows and now a few sheep were thrown into the picture.
It took a while
to find the restaurant – no signs, and the only indication that something might be happening in a small building were a couple of rickety chairs propped up against the wall and an ancient car. There was a huge tree near the entrance that provided wonderful shade. Bill went in to see if this was indeed the restaurant. He called us in and all there was in the room was a smallish bar counter with a huge selection of cigarettes, 3 long tables with benches, a couple of large ancient pointer type dogs sprawled on the floor and a very excited Jack Russell leaping about. There was a largish lady what a very ample bosom behind the bar.
We ordered drinks, kir for me and beers for the guys. This time I got a reasonable sized glass. Steve asked her if we could have lunch and she asked “how many”. We replied that it was just us and she disappeared into a room behind the bar. Next to the room we were in was what looked like part of the living quarters. There was a big table with a remarkably swish looking laptop, papers all over the long table, old calendars and stuffed dead foxes and other small animals on the walls, a cabinet full of small trophies (probably for the dead animals), a fireplace and mantelpiece adorned with plaster angels of varying sizes and funny little ornaments. The room we were sitting in was similarly adorned with stuffed dead animals and a pheasant.
The Jack Russell had lost interest in us and was jumping up against the glass of a fish tank trying to bite the fish. He kept this up for almost the entire time we were there. The patron refreshed out drinks and we still didn’t know if there would be any food there. She went off into the adjoining room and bustled about out of sight. We thought we would just finish our drinks and push off when she called us to come to have lunch.
In the corner of the room was a beautifully set table; white tablecloth, small vase of flowers, wine glasses and nice cutlery. She brought through our first course; a finely sliced tomato with the most amazing dressing and a nice piece of crab. This came with a platter of warm bread. The bread sopped up the dressing – there was no chance any would be left. Our next course was a large steak, lightly flavoured with garlic and chunky chips beautifully cooked. We got stuck in and so did she – she cleared a space on her big table in front of the laptop. During all this time she had barely spoken a word to us. She rounded off the meal with a rather grand cheese board and more warm bread. It was a fantastic meal and we washed it down with a couple of jugs of tasty house wine. It was such an incongruous setting for such a fine meal. The cost was very reasonable and we toddled back to the boat feeling very pleased with ourselves, at one with the world and very content.
We arrived in Clamercy mid afternoon. From the canal Clamercy looked like a really lovely place. The small marina offered water and electricity, was spotless and pretty – tubs of flowers scattered around. We were in a fairly old part of the town and there was quite a bit of restoration happening with the buildings near the marina. We could see the scaffolding on the old cathedral that sat on top of the hill, with the town at its feet. Quite spectacular.
We tidied up and set off to explore – I needed to buy a hat after
losing my cap in a lock during a rainsquall. Steve wanted to get a fishing rod; there were heaps of fishermen and Steve figured he should have a go at catching supper. The streets were narrow and cobbled. Only bikes and pedestrians could manage some of the old roads going to the top of the hill. We found our way to the cathedral and town square. The square boasted a number of restaurants and we decided to come back for dinner at an Italian place. On our way down the winding streets we found a Cave – did a little wine tasting and bought a few bottles to add to the boats stock. We had a drink at a small bar, watched the locals and then went shopping. The only hat I could get was at the fishing shop – a gray floppy thing that was not at all attractive but would do. Steve got his collapsible rod and bought a few shirts as well. He commented later when he was wearing on of the shirts that he felt a bit like a picnic tablecloth – I am not saying a word.
Our dinner was quite ordinary but tasty. We had spaghetti bolognaise and nice h
ouse wine – I sloshed some fiery chili sauce on it and mine did make the meal a bit more exciting. One of the things I was beginning to crave was vegetables. I eat a lot of veg at home so was beginning to feel the lack of greens. I learnt here about ordering a “salad vert”. So I tried to always start a meal with either a green salad (which varied according to restaurant – some added tomato and other salad goodies or it was just a bowl of lettuce). If there was crudite on the menu I would have that and it was usually made up of a variety of vegetable like grated carrot, green beans and so on – usually cold and with a dressing.
We had had a good day, quite a bit of sun and good meals. We were ready for bed after a few nightcaps on the boat.
Day's progress: 18kms 10 locks
This was Bill’s last full day with us – he would be catching the train from Clamercy the next day to Migennes to pick up his car. The weather had cleared and it looked like we were in for a nice day. It was a bit chilly but the sun was out.
This was the first day we really had a chance to take in the lovely countryside – instead of huddling under shelter we could be on deck and enjoy ourselves. Steve must have been relieved – fixing the windscreen wipers must have done the trick! The landscape had very gentle hills and lovely green pastures. Big fat butter coloured cows (Charolais) all over the place. The air smelled farmyardy – not too much but enough to know we were “in the country”.
We seemed to be the only boat on the canal – there was no one else around. This might be because some of the others we had started with had turned back to the base (they m
ay have been doing a week trip) and also because we were covering in pleasure cruising terms, quite a distance each day. We were also doing a full day – we had to get Bill to Clamercy in time and we had to stick to our plan to meet our overall deadlines. Remember that we could only start at 9 in the morning when the locks opened and we could only cruise at a maximum speed of 8 kmp and the locks were closed between 12 and 1. We also worked out that it sometimes took us half an hour to get through a lock if it was against us or there was traffic in the opposite direction that had right of way. We were busy on the boat and there wasn’t much time to slack off.Before I lurch into a description of our next meal (lunch), I thought I should tell you about our morning routine and breakfasts. Steve would get up fairly early and hose and mop down the boats’ exterior – it gets quite messy with grass and other debris from all the jumping on and off at locks and moorings. He would then walk to the nearest boulangerie for fresh bread and croissants. I would put out the breakfast things – melon and parma ham, butter and jam, orange juice and make the coffee. This became our standard breakfast for the entire trip – refreshing and not too heavy bearing in mind we would be having lunch 3 hours later. Bill chopped up the previous days bread for the ducks, helped with washing up and did his bit of housework – ie. Fluff his duvet. I would also do a bit of housekeeping. The boat was very roomy and we had enough bathrooms, the kitchen quite large and bedrooms a fair size. But we had to make sure we didn’t have stuff lying around and it was easier to clean up every day than to leave it. We usually finished breakfast and about 8.45, got ready to go and tried to be at the first lock, if it was close by, for opening time. That was our routine and so far it seemed to work well.
Running along side the canal is a well-maintained path about 2.5 meters wide. Because of the change in the weather there were people walking, running or cycling on the path. In days gone by, barges were pulled along the canals by donkeys, horses or mule and even more alarming by the bargeman’s strong wife and children. The path followed the same gradient as the canal so it was an ideal place to walk or cycle. There were groups of people on walking tours and many touring cycles, some pulling special little baby carriages or kiddie bikes. Everyone was very friendly and everyone we saw greeted us. The fishermen were out in force and we got a wave and bon jour from them.
There are many small towns and villages on the canals and rivers. They are fairly close together so quite a number of people on the path are locals. And they usually had a dog with them. The French love their dogs and after I while I felt as if I was viewing a dog show. Beautiful breeds, some I hadn’t seen for ages and so far not a mongrel in sight. The dogs are well groomed, well socialized, obedient and friendly. Dogs are welcome in restaurants and shops and waiters rush to put down a bowl of water – before attending to the owners. I saw a couple of wired haired terriers – a breed from my childhood and I had forgotten how appealing these little critters are. My mother always called them wooden leg dogs because of the way they keep their front legs dead straight.
Cats were not quite so visible – I had seen a few but they scampered away if I got too close. In the towns and villages the houses are sometimes built really close to the street – only a narrow pavement separates them from the traffic. Beautiful lace curtains kept out prying eyes. The fashionable thing is heavily patterned lace usually showing an animal, bird or flower design. Designs showing cats in various poses were popular.
We stopped at a small village called SURGY. We moored the boat next to a very pleasant park/recreation area. This park provided outstanding ablution facilities – spotless toilets and showers with soap, toilet paper and paper towels and large laun
dry basins. The place was well looked after and there was not another person in sight and everything was unlocked. On the other side of the canal was an old structure that would have been used as a “ water taxi stop”. It was roofed and level with the water to make it easy to jump on a barge – the villagers must have used these taxis to go back and forth to bigger towns. The village was a short distance from the canal and we had a nice walk there; past the inevitable fields of cows and now a few sheep were thrown into the picture.It took a while
to find the restaurant – no signs, and the only indication that something might be happening in a small building were a couple of rickety chairs propped up against the wall and an ancient car. There was a huge tree near the entrance that provided wonderful shade. Bill went in to see if this was indeed the restaurant. He called us in and all there was in the room was a smallish bar counter with a huge selection of cigarettes, 3 long tables with benches, a couple of large ancient pointer type dogs sprawled on the floor and a very excited Jack Russell leaping about. There was a largish lady what a very ample bosom behind the bar.We ordered drinks, kir for me and beers for the guys. This time I got a reasonable sized glass. Steve asked her if we could have lunch and she asked “how many”. We replied that it was just us and she disappeared into a room behind the bar. Next to the room we were in was what looked like part of the living quarters. There was a big table with a remarkably swish looking laptop, papers all over the long table, old calendars and stuffed dead foxes and other small animals on the walls, a cabinet full of small trophies (probably for the dead animals), a fireplace and mantelpiece adorned with plaster angels of varying sizes and funny little ornaments. The room we were sitting in was similarly adorned with stuffed dead animals and a pheasant.
The Jack Russell had lost interest in us and was jumping up against the glass of a fish tank trying to bite the fish. He kept this up for almost the entire time we were there. The patron refreshed out drinks and we still didn’t know if there would be any food there. She went off into the adjoining room and bustled about out of sight. We thought we would just finish our drinks and push off when she called us to come to have lunch.
In the corner of the room was a beautifully set table; white tablecloth, small vase of flowers, wine glasses and nice cutlery. She brought through our first course; a finely sliced tomato with the most amazing dressing and a nice piece of crab. This came with a platter of warm bread. The bread sopped up the dressing – there was no chance any would be left. Our next course was a large steak, lightly flavoured with garlic and chunky chips beautifully cooked. We got stuck in and so did she – she cleared a space on her big table in front of the laptop. During all this time she had barely spoken a word to us. She rounded off the meal with a rather grand cheese board and more warm bread. It was a fantastic meal and we washed it down with a couple of jugs of tasty house wine. It was such an incongruous setting for such a fine meal. The cost was very reasonable and we toddled back to the boat feeling very pleased with ourselves, at one with the world and very content.
We arrived in Clamercy mid afternoon. From the canal Clamercy looked like a really lovely place. The small marina offered water and electricity, was spotless and pretty – tubs of flowers scattered around. We were in a fairly old part of the town and there was quite a bit of restoration happening with the buildings near the marina. We could see the scaffolding on the old cathedral that sat on top of the hill, with the town at its feet. Quite spectacular.
We tidied up and set off to explore – I needed to buy a hat after
losing my cap in a lock during a rainsquall. Steve wanted to get a fishing rod; there were heaps of fishermen and Steve figured he should have a go at catching supper. The streets were narrow and cobbled. Only bikes and pedestrians could manage some of the old roads going to the top of the hill. We found our way to the cathedral and town square. The square boasted a number of restaurants and we decided to come back for dinner at an Italian place. On our way down the winding streets we found a Cave – did a little wine tasting and bought a few bottles to add to the boats stock. We had a drink at a small bar, watched the locals and then went shopping. The only hat I could get was at the fishing shop – a gray floppy thing that was not at all attractive but would do. Steve got his collapsible rod and bought a few shirts as well. He commented later when he was wearing on of the shirts that he felt a bit like a picnic tablecloth – I am not saying a word.
Our dinner was quite ordinary but tasty. We had spaghetti bolognaise and nice h
ouse wine – I sloshed some fiery chili sauce on it and mine did make the meal a bit more exciting. One of the things I was beginning to crave was vegetables. I eat a lot of veg at home so was beginning to feel the lack of greens. I learnt here about ordering a “salad vert”. So I tried to always start a meal with either a green salad (which varied according to restaurant – some added tomato and other salad goodies or it was just a bowl of lettuce). If there was crudite on the menu I would have that and it was usually made up of a variety of vegetable like grated carrot, green beans and so on – usually cold and with a dressing.We had had a good day, quite a bit of sun and good meals. We were ready for bed after a few nightcaps on the boat.
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