Day 2: Auxerre to Accaloy

Monday, 9th July 2007

Day's Progress: 23kms 13 locks

It rained most of the day, was cold and windy. There was really heavy rain at some stages and we had to don raingear and fleece jackets. Steve was up on top deck driving the boat whilst Bill and I huddled in the overhang to get a bit of shelter venturing out to supply Steve with cups of tea or beer. We also ventured out to do the ropes at the locks. Weather wise a very miserable day. At lunch time we moored up at a small town called Vincelottes which in on a small canal next to a big town called Vincelles.

We brushed our hair, grabbed umbrellas and headed off for the restaurant which we understood to be really good. It was about a 2km walk and we arrived there looking quite bedraggled in our shorts, boat shoes and soggy jackets. My goodness….the restaurant was fantastic. Beautiful décor, sort of voluptuous…the ladies loo was tremendous – huge bowls of flowers. There were also huge bowls of flowers in the dining room, bright paintings, plush chairs, full curtains with metres of fabric, huge loaves of bread…everything looked lush without being too much…there was no scrimping here.

The cover of the menu showed a paining of a voluptuous young lady and it was only we were leaving that I noticed the painting hanging on the wall. There were
Limoges plates on the table with the restaurant logo – 2 birds with large tails facing each other and the chef/owners initials in the body of the birds..and then the he appeared. He was so charming – despite the fact that we looked so disheveled he treated us like royalty. His name is Alain Renaudin and was pleased to know we were from South Africa – he had spent a great holiday in Cape Town and was very impressed with the Mount Nelson Hotel. Steve had a quick look at the wine list and his eyes nearly feel out of his head. He declared it the best he had ever seen despite the fact that some of the wines clocked in at 450 euros a bottle. Steve then started fussing with his jacket and declared he had left his wallet on the boat – truly.
He had changed his shorts and forgotten to pick it up. I must add that this was most unlike Steve – he is a shopaholic of note and he was very distressed that he didn’t have his wallet on him – lucky for us Bill had his and offered to pick up the tab. The food was fantastic. And the wine that was recommended by Alain – talk about personal service – he advised, recommended and supervised the serving. He also explained the different butters on the table, this one went with the dark olive bread best, that one with the white bread…..glasses were filled without any indication from us, water glasses always toped up. We decided to have a main course and dessert – three courses is just too much food. We were given a little beef creamy mousse soup in a little cup to get us started – different and delicious. Then we all had fish. I had turbot that was fabulous. It was served with mashed potato – the mash was done with squashed black olives and olive oil – very yummy. I think the fish was cooked with chicken skin covering the piece that side that did not have fish skin – this kept the fish moist and succulent and lent quite a subtle flavour to it – it certainly complimented the flavour of the fish. We attacked the cheese board and indulged in some superb cheeses – you don’t need a lot as it is so rich but a wonderful way to finish off a meal. When we were ready to go, we went into the bar where Alain sits behind a rickety looking desk and personally writes up the bill on a fairly ordinary stationary store pad, adds it up on an old hand held calculator and whips the page off with a flourish and presents it to Bill. He is complete control and charge of his restaurant and customers. Charming – everything done so well and he really is a bit of a showman. Bill managed not to faint and only turned a little pale. It was an expensive lunch but we all agreed it was a wonderful meal, experience and worth every euro. The restaurant by the way is called les Tilleuls.

Co-incidentally, post trip, I found this wonderful review on the Hotel Guru website.

Fiona Duncan wrote: A 10-minute drive from Auxerre brings you to Les Tilleuls in Vincellotes (8642 2213; closed Wed), where in summer you can eat beside the river under the lime trees. You need to keep your wits about you here, or the gently mocking patron, Alain Renaudin, will have talked you into foie gras, fine wines and a hefty bill without a menu ever appearing. But you will have had fun.

We were pleased for the 2km walk back to the boat – walked off some of our excesses at lunchtime. We headed for a smallish town called Accaloy that was on a canal that lead off the canal we were on. Accolay is an old town and the lock we went through just before the town was really beautiful – flowers all over the place, even up the banks of the little bridge. The town had nice moorings and we did a quick walk through the town before the rain come down. Next to the mooring was a well-preserved very old washhouse. The large rectangular pool was quite big and dotted at intervals were stones for the washing to be scrubbed on. I can only say it must have been damn uncomfortable to do washing this way – backbreaking. Next to the washhouse was a small park and the local gentlemen were playing a noisy game of boulles. I did the Tai Chi short form in the shelter of the washhouse and attracted a local audience.

Because it was Monday, the restaurant was closed so we settled for another meal on board of cheese, bread, pate and wine – not that we really needed much after our lunch. By this stage we had put together quite a nice collection of cheeses and wine.